Mercredi - day 4

Anne's significant birthday dawned (at 8.40am). Steve was up early and headed off to the supermarché in the half light to buy croissants and a beautiful bouquet of roses and tulips for his bride. Again the boys commandeered the kitchen, cooking up a storm of poached eggs, bacon, sausages and tomatoes.

After breakfast, our little troupe headed off for Mont Martre, via the Metro. We got off at Blanche station and firstly called in at the Moulin Rouge ticket office where, as a phone call the night before confirmed, my wayward glasses were waiting. Then we commenced the lengthy climb upwards along cobbled streets towards Sacré Coeur.

It was bitterly cold, so we stopped at a café in Place Mont Martre for coffees and hot chocolate. There  were artists dotted all over the square - amazing portraits and landscapes, no amateurs here. At the back of the square is the Galerie Mont Martre which is currently exhibiting pieces by the likes of Cévé and Dali, and many others. Breathtaking work by such famous hands. Not what we might want on our walls or coffee tables but awe inspiring all the same.

Then it was onwards and upwards to visit Sacré Coeur. The boys stayed on the parapet overlooking the vast spread of Paris below. As Anne and I entered the church, we were zapped by a security wand, bags searched, for the umpteenth time. Far from being an imposition, it leant a small measure of comfort to being in a very touristy public place.  Sacré Coeur was as every bit impressive as all the other religious monuments that I've seen around the world. I had coins this time, so I lit a candle for my sister Carole.

On the way down, we stopped at a little shop where Anne and I each bought a jacket, just like that.

Back to 9 Rue Leroux, a small baguette for lunch, then off to the Vog salon in Ave de Victor Hugo for a shampoo and blow dry in preparation for the birthday dinner. We had ducked in on the way to Mont Martre and made an appointment for 3pm.

As we entered the salon, our coats were deposited in a cloak room (cupboard) and then we were whisked downstairs for the shampoo part of the deal. While there, they persuaded us to have a little cut which we agreed to. This of course doubled the price of the transaction but the end result was well worth it. My fellow was Alfredo from Mexico City. He spoke a little English, so combined with my little French, we had quite a jolly conversation. Annie and I felt renewed when we left, quite glamorous in fact.

Donned in our glad rags, we called Uber for a cab. By the time we emerged from the building two minutes later, he was waiting for us. Off to Restaurant 58 situated on the first tier of le Tour d'Eiffel. We were a whole hour early and so wandered in and out of tourist shops trying to keep warm. As it was already dark, a light rain falling and gusty winds, we decided against ascending to the lofty most point.
When finally seated, we enjoyed a trés delicieux dinner with accompanying wine. Steve got chatting to the young couple seated next to us, having overheard the Scottish brogue. Anne"s brother in law Gordonis from a town north of Edinburgh called Kirkcaldy. These two, on their honeymoon, come from the next town. A small world! They joined in the birthday song for Annie as she blew out the obligatory candle.